11 days out thought it was time to put up our first post. Left home on Sunday 29th August with leisurely drive to Oakey Creek Rest Area (Camps 5: 620 - GPS 27 19 40S 151 27 17E) near Bowenville for first night. Stopped at Cooyar for morning tea. Quite location but unfortunately toilets were blocked up and not flushing so unpleasant experience. Oakey Creek is a free camp with a massive level area and good toilet block but no taps for water only drawback. Could easily spend a number of nights here but fires are not permitted but that does not stop a lot of people. Surprisingly came across a crop of mushrooms and was able to pick enough to have with dinner.
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| Swinging Bridge Cooyar |
Monday 30th August was a long day driving 45kms to Cecil Plains Apex Park (Camps 5: 622 - GPS 27 31 56S 151 12 16E). This town, located on the Condamine River, has a bit of history as it where Ludwig Leichardt set out from Cecil Plains Homestead on two of his explorations including his fateful trip of 1847? when he perished. There is pioneer cemetery here and it is a tearful experience reading how young some of the early settlers were when they died and the manner in which they died. Good free camp with good toilets and water quality is good enough to top up water tanks. Trying to patronise the towns where we camp so had pie and chips from the general store for lunch. Met a couple from Wodonga who had been at Oakey Creek the previous day.
On Tuesday 31st August moved on to Boomi (GPS 28 43 511S 149 34 729E), a town with an artesian pool, located 82kms SW of Goondiwindi. Originally planned to spend three nights here but as we drove into town thought that two would be enough. This campsite is run by a community cooperative with the amenities being very basic but were in the process of building a new amenities block which has unisex showers and a laundry included. Was a relaxing couple of days with trips to the artesian pool each day. Met a couple from Speers Point. He used to be an ambulance officer based at Toronto and they knew a woman who I used to work with on the trains 43 years ago. Small world! I went for a walk around a 7.5km nature trail which highlighted some of the tree varieties that grow in the area. Also saw three kangaroos. Emus inhabit the area but did not see any although I reckon I saw a couple of mounds where they have nested.
Thursday 2nd September was the longest day on the road being a drive of 320kms to Manilla so earliest departure at 7.30am. Was going to spend a couple of nights at Split Rock Dam (GPS 30 33 50S 150 40 35E) north of Manilla but the camp area with the amenities was some distance from the dam and very isolated. The amenities were exceptional for such a location but at $16.00 per night for a powered site we considered it safer to stay at the caravan park in town. This was very quiet and beside the river with a good amenities block for $20.00 per night. Had a couple of showers along the way after leaving Moree.
Friday 3rd September left Manilla about 9.00am heading to Binnaway. Fuelled up at Gunnedah then headed to Mullaley for morning tea. This section through to south of Coonabarabran was the longest on major highways to date. We try to avoid the highways as much as possible, sticking to secondary roads, thereby avoiding the heavy transport and traffic volume which makes driving a lot less stressful. Binnaway (GPS 31 32 781S 149 22 733E) was another free camp but also had four powered sites with cost of $2 for 3 hours and showers being $2 for 5” hot & cold. We couldn’t have got a level sight near the power if we had wanted to the first night so we ran the generator for a few hours while we watched the first half of the Broncos v Raiders match. Obvious that Broncos wasn’t going to get through to finals by then so went to bed. As it was very overcast with rain forecast and a large motorhome had moved off one of the powered sites we moved the van and plugged in. We only paid for enough power to watch the two AFL matches on Saturday. As we were down on spuds and carrots Jeanette bought some at the local IGA then the next day a couple from Tassie offered us some as they had to get rid of them before boarding the boat in Melbourne. Don’t know how people in these small country towns can afford to buy all their groceries at their local store. Weather has not been the best and today got very windy which made it colder.
Sunday 5th September was going to spend a night at Mendooran which was only about 46kms but decided to push on a bit further because of the crap weather. We zigzagged our way down to Yeoval where they had power at the showground but the toilet block was not the best so had lunch and drove down to Cumnock (Camps 5: 1034 - 32 55 698S 148 44 753E). It was $5 pn to camp here with power and showers but had to collect key from shop or pub to get in the locked gate. Being Sunday the shop was closed and the lady at the pub knew nothing about the keys. Luckily there was a couple already camped there and they let us in. They had the prime spot right beside the amenities and because it had been raining had taken over the ladies with their washing hanging in there to dry. So we had the men’s’ to ourselves (like an ensuite). They were very clean with liquid soap provided at the hand basin and the shower extremely hot in the morning; just what was needed with the cold weather we were experiencing. As the other couple were heading to Orange to the hospital the next morning (and had the gate key) this meant we had to be on the move by 8.00am. Went to the shop and paid for the night and got talking to a local about the town. Cumnock was the town that about 18 months ago offered house to rent for $1 per week to attract young families to the area to keep their school going. Although half have left because they couldn’t cope with the isolation and some had pig dogs which just doesn’t go down in a sheep farming area the others have stayed on and making a life of it. Don’t know what they do for a job as the nearest large town is Orange about 70kms away. Something we had noticed driving through from Yeoval was ‘sculpture’ of animals on bikes which was something the progress association had started between Yeoval and Molong in an attempt to get tourists to drive through these towns and, hopefully stop, instead of driving along the main highway.
A lot of these towns are old railway towns that have slowly died after the railway closed with very few shops and perhaps a pub still open. Unfortunately some of the houses are an eyesore and if they were located in a more densely populated town would be condemned and bulldozed.
Driving into the main street of Gulgong saw a sign a bit too late which restricted access to vehicles over 5 tonne except for tourist buses. Luckily I came to a side street before the worst of it because, with the traffic parked on both sides of the street, traffic could only travel one direction at a time although it was a two-way street. As we will be coming back through Gulgong will spend a bit more time in the town which has lot of gold-mining history.
Monday 6th September headed for Gooloogong but after leaving Molong missed the turn for the most direct route and took the Manildra road which was fortunate because as we drove into Manildra we drove past the Manildra Flour Mill which is the largest flour mill I have seen and must be fantastic for employment in the region. Judging by the shipping containers in their hundreds they must export overseas as well as supplying the domestic market.
All the way down from Moree could not get over how well the country looked with crops of wheat, canola and barley in fantastic condition. What a difference some rain makes. It would be an absolute shame, after the long period of drought that the farmers have had, that the locusts now hatching in the Nyngan and Tibboburra districts could devastate these crops.
At Eugowra we stopped for morning tea and the first opportunity to have a cappuccino since leaving home. Not the sort of cappuccino we are used to but the passion fruit cheesecake with it was delicious.
There is a 72 hour free camp at Gooloogong (Camps 5: 501 - GPS 33 36 49S 148 26 03E) with power and shower and a donation box. Many people connect to power and don’t leave a donation but these are great facilities and worthy of a donation to maintain them. There is a café at the hotel across the road where the coffee was much better than at Eugowra. Accompanied with scones, jam and fresh cream Jeanette did not need lunch. I usually go for a walk around each town/village with Spencer and still marvel at how some of these towns survive. The Pioneers Walkway in the park provides a great insight into the early pioneering families of the district. The plaques on the top of the wall in the photo depict each of the pioneering families, DOB, DOD, date of marriage and to whom and offspring. There was something similar at Boomi with a list of the families who had occupied the various properties around Boomi but did not have as much detail. This pioneer record is quite a remarkable achievement for such a small community. Ran into a couple in a motorhome who had sold a caravan park in Narrandera earlier in the year and had just completed an around Australia trip. Ironic that an ex c/park owner was free camping.
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| Pioneers Walkway Gooloogong |
Wednesday 8th September intended to head for Junee today but come across a camp area at Ariah Park (Camps 5: 961 - GPS 34 21 08S 147 37 09E) with power, showers and a washing machine for $10pn with third night free. Very quiet location with good amenities; thoroughly recommend but watch out for the Hitachi twin-tub washer because it eats your socks and other smalls. They spin out of the spin basket and get lost underneath and require an intricate operation to retrieve them. Able to get washing done and dry on first day but today (Thursday) is wet and freezing. The diesel heater has certainly paid its way over the last week, not only to turn on before getting out of bed in the mornings but to also warm up in the evenings because it has been so cold.
Friday 10th September As the region had quite a significant amount of rain we changed our route for the next leg which was going to take us across the Hume Hwy to Tumut, Batlow, Tumbarumba and Jingellic before crossing the border into Victoria. Roads were cut and with a lot of gravel roads closed as were a lot of camping areas. Travelled through Coolamon to Junee to catch up with Aunty Kath, Uncle Kevin and cousins Vicki, Allan and Jill. As it had been four years since we had seen them last it was good to spend a few hours with them.
As we drove towards Howlong and the Murray River it continued to rain and it was not looking promising for a dry campsite but as it turned out Police Paddocks between Howlong and Wahgunyah was the only campsite open along the entire length of the Murray River due to flooding or potential flooding. Instead of the rickety timber bridges across the river at Howlong that we remember there are now new concrete bridges which make for a lot safer crossing. For all the time we lived in Corowa we had never been out to this spot and would camp here again (Camps 5:292 - GPS 35 58 696S 146 30 529E). Spent three nights here and had to use the generator to keep the batteries charged up due to the inclement weather and watching some of the footy finals during the night.
Trevor and Lorraine came out each afternoon which certainly helped to fill the time catching up. It got so cold the first night without a fire and by the time they left at 7.30pm it was a job to fill the generator and diesel heater tank in the dark even with a torch. Had a campfire the next two nights and finished up with a BBQ on Sunday night. After numerous phone calls Jeanette was able to catch up with Craig and grandchildren on Sunday afternoon at Wahgunyah Footy Grounds where Josh was celebrating winning back to back premierships with the under 14’s.
Went into Corowa to fill up the pantry on Saturday with Jeanette catching up with some people in the street that she knew. Called to see Bev Bartlett who had some health issues earlier in the year and Dave then out to the cemetery to put flowers on Mum & Dad’s graves.
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| Police Padocks |
Monday 13th September departed about 9.30am for the short drive to Yarrawonga which one of Leea’s friends asked jokingly the day before if it would be a two day trip. At the rate we are travelling it could easily have been. Thought we would use the dump point at Yarrawonga because the one at Corowa required a key from the caravan park, the one at Mulwala required a key from the newsagent but when we got to Yarrawonga found that one had to go to the council office in the main street over a kilometre away to get a key. So if you are travelling on to Cobram use the one at the showground there which is unlocked and easily accessible. Spent Monday and Tuesday hooked up at Marg & Doug’s catching up with Julie and her children. If Marg & Doug’s plans come to fruition this may be the last time to visit them in Yarrawonga. Nice sunny days while in Yarrawonga and best weather since leaving Boomi.
Wednesday 15th September departed about 9.30am heading for Lockington a small town of 408 population. The further west we travelled the colder, windier and wetter it got. Total of 8 sites with power and water but not available until caretaker attends and switches on supply from main point. This controls each site individually which means someone cannot come in and freeload which, unfortunately, is a common practice in many locations. Cost is $15pn, sites are on gravel, with concrete path to toilets and showers (2) which are in a converted concrete water tank with plenty of room and lovely and hot, (Camps 5: 319 – GPS 36 16 176S 144 32 052E) . The is a fantastic coffee shop across road; hard to stay away from these. There is a laundromat in the town at $4 per load but we did not need this. We spent two nights here. It rained again and Jeanette reckons the rain is following us. However Spencer and I have been fortunate enough to get in at least one walk each day.
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| Colourful Shower Block at Lockington |
Friday 17th September on the road again at 9.30am travelling through Kotta, Mitiamo, Boort (first hill since Howlong in NSW), Wycheproof, Birchip before arriving at Hopetoun for the night. Very flat country with crops still looking good but plenty of water in the flat paddocks. Plenty of signs of where water had been across roads during flooding of the previous week. Many of the side roads which are mainly gravel still closed. Camps 5 states that camp is at Lake Lascelles at east end of Austin St but this appears to be more of a day area. After having lunch we were going to move on to next location but as we drove around the lake found a good spot on the eastern side of lake near another toilet block (Camps 5: 693 – GPS 35 43 556S 142 22 488E). This looked more like photo in Camps 5.This is a manmade lake for water skiing and had recently been filled. Expensive pastime because the local ski club charge $20 for casual use of the boat ramp or $200 per year. I suppose this goes towards upkeep of the lake and surrounds. Lake Currong a natural lake nearby was starting to fill from flooding of the Yambiattick Creek.
Saturday 18th September departed for Western Beach on Lake Albacutya travelling through Yapeet. Wasn’t aware that this lake only fills intermittently and even with the flooding there was no sign of any water flowing into this lake. Whilst there was a good toilet block for the location it was hard to find a clear spot for solar and there was a large number of young campers with trail bikes so not expecting a quite time here we moved on. Stopped at Rainbow for lunch and checked out the caravan park but it did not appeal. Same size as Hopetoun (450 pop.) but appeared to have more going for it as a town. Drove on to Schultz’s Beach at Lake Hindmarsh (GPS 36 02 744S 141 51 441E). Lucky to find a level spot but ground was covered in rabbit droppings so plenty of blowflies’ to drive us crazy. Toilet block was not working; water tank had been turned off probably as a result of previous vandalism because one of the concrete wall panels had been removed from the wall. Once again promotional material states that this is Victoria’s largest fresh water lake but due to the drought had not seen water for about 12-15 years. This lake is fed by the Wimmera river and was starting to fill. We arrived at 1.30pm and it was surprising how many people drove the 2kms off the main road to look at the lake and the water. Met an older couple from Moama who were both born at Hopetoun and have a 10,000 acre property at Gama now being worked by their son. Both lakes Hindmarsh and Albacutya were very popular for water skiing and swimming in better times. This couple had enjoyed both pastimes with their family in years gone by with mention of a 27’ high windmill in Lake Albacutya which was completely covered by water in one of the previous floodings. Impossible to imagine if you get a chance to visit these lakes. Very interesting listening to this couple talk about the farming history of this area. Even though we in the middle of nowhere by ourselves we had a good night’s sleep.
Sunday 19th September mid morning departure joining the Western Highway at Nhill before arriving at Kaniva a small town of 750 pop. where we intended to spend one night but as we were trying to slow up so we do not arrive in Adelaide during the school holidays and the weather is still crap we decided to lay up for a week. Not sure if this is working out because weather is still mainly crap but slowly improving. This is a small caravan park (GPS 36 20 370S 140 46 252E) away from the highway ; cost is $20pn or $90 pw with good hot showers and another free twin tub washing machine but a bit better than the one at Ariah Park. Nice rural outlook across the road with a crop of Faba Beans then Canola beyond that. Had no idea what type of beans they were until we bumped into a local up the street the other day who has a property at Lillimur just west of here and got talking about the crops and life in general. The beans are grown for stock feed with a lot of it being exported. Found another great coffee place at the Windmill Café. You wonder how a café can survive in a small town like this but this café seems to be the meeting place for all the locals. It is not uncommon for half of the shop fronts in the small towns to be closed with no prospect for new businesses opening. Just examples of how small country towns, if not die, shrink to only sustain a small number of essential businesses. We have not had too many neighbours since arriving here but a couple of nights ago had a couple of chaps who were walking from Adelaide to Melbourne to raise awareness for lung cancer. They claim that it does not get much recognition because of its relationship to smoking but they had a friend who died in 2008 at age 33 who had never smoked in his life. Certainly makes one appreciate life just that bit more. They were walking about 40 kms each day but both were limping and looked as if they could not walk another metre but the father of one (being the sole support team) said that after soaking in salt water and being rubbed with a cream to numb the pain they would be ready the next morning.
Tuesday 12th October – Travelled the coast road through Kingston, Robe, Beachport and Southend before rejoining the highway at Millicent before arriving in Mt Gambier where we intended to stay several days at the showground. Found Robe and Beachport to be attractive towns and had we known the showground was closed for camping because of the upcoming Mt Gambier show we would have probably stayed at one of these towns. It rained the whole day so this detracted from the scenery because it was an interesting drive. We visited one of the blue lakes and with the drizzling rain the lake as covered in mist so unsure how the photos will turn out. Decided to drive down to Port MacDonnell, the southern rock lobster capital of Australia, where we stayed one night at the Harbourview Caravan Park in town before moving out to the Foreshore Caravan Park about 1.3km out of town on the Nelson road. The Harbourview is only a small park with 20 sites and two showers for both male and females but because it is off season they close one shower cubicle which is a bit rough when there are a number of people in overnight. Not worth the $27. The Foreshore is $27.50 pn but has a dump point which was critical to us as we have a few nights free camping ahead and no dump point until we reach Portland. We were not told until we had paid that the showers are 10 cents in the slot for 7” showers which, according to the new owners, the past owners found necessary to move people on in the peak times when the caravan park is full. Other parks manage this problem in peak times so do not see why this is necessary. However found that the washing machines were twin tubs that were free and although we did not intend to do any washing took advantage of this so did offset our discontent to some degree. Limited facilities in town and some are closed because the lobster season had not started, being a month late this year.
Sunday 26th September after watching the grand final yesterday we are heading into SA to stock up with supplies at Murray Bridge before heading to camp beside the river at Mannum. Obvious change in land fertility due to lower rainfall but quite picturesque from Tailem Bend to Murray Bridge following the Murray River. Stopped for morning tea at a very popular park on the river at Murray Bridge. There were numerous house boats based here. Took the road up the western side of the river to Mannum to avoid the ferry only to find that the camping area is located on the eastern side of the river. There are two ferries crossing the river here so it is not a long wait to get across. One good point is that you can cross as a pedestrian with a dog on lead. Saw the Murray Princess, a 120 berth paddle steamer, depart from opposite the camping ground. The skipper must have good skills to turn a boat this big on the river at this point. The camping ground is divided into bays and can become very congested at holiday times as it was when we were there however it is located on the river bank opposite town is a great location. Bolto Park (Camps 5: 227 – GPS 34 54 53.00S 139 18 59.00E).
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| Murray Princess - Mannum |
Tuesday 28th September – After spending two days headed off for the Barossa and Clare valleys via Palmer, Williamstown, Tanunda, Nuriootpa and Clare. It was a steep, winding climb out of Palmer with one of the features being paintings on the limestone rocks on the hillsides. We call this graffiti and the rocks would look far more unique in their natural state. The initial part of the day was driving through rolling green farmland which changed to continual rows of vineyards as we passed through the Barossa Valley, and the countryside changed again to a mixture of vineyards and farming as we drove through the Clare Valley. Intended to spend the night at Whitecliff Reserve east of Koolunga but thought it was too isolated and too hard to get the van into a suitable campsite. More suitable for camper trailers. Returned to Koolunga and camped at Bunyip Park (Camps 5: 323 – 33 35 19.8S 138 20 03.7E). Cost $15.00 per night with key at hotel to switch on power and shower. As we were the only campers it was a rather spooky location made worse in the morning when we went to have showers and the water didn’t heat up. Reported to the publican when I returned the key but no apology or compensation. Would not recommend this camp. One redeeming feature is that there were a pair of galahs nesting on a tree hollow beside our van and also a pair of ring-necked parrots nesting in another hollow which could have been reached standing on the log fence. Not that we did this because there would have been young in the nests. Some kind local had placed a water container below the galah’s nest.
Wednesday 29th September – Headed for Port Broughton on west side of Yorke Peninsula where we had morning tea. This is one of the nicer towns on the peninsula. Being SA school holidays there were plenty of kids in the caravan park so moved on to Tickera. There is a picnic area adjacent to the public toilets with a no camping sign so we were about to move on when a local came from a nearby house and told us that plenty of motorhomes camped on the beachfront adjacent to the boat ramp but must not obstruct access to the boat ramp. We were able to drive down the hill and back up to a dead end area which had a fantastic outlook. (GPS 33 47 02.1S 137 42 30.1E).
Thursday 30th September – Drove through Wallaroo on the way to Moonta for morning tea. Stopped at the Cornish Kitchen at Moonta which has a reputation for its Cornish pasties for morning tea and weren’t disappointed. Jeanette could have had more which is unusual. There are a number of well maintained heritage listed buildings in town well worth a look. Continued on through Maitland, Port Victoria, Minlaton and Warooka to Burners Beach for the nights camp. Not being familiar with the area the camp area was well concealed along a dirt track below the cliffs. This is a quite location but lacking a view because of the sand dunes. There were about six others camped here, mainly fishing on the beach but because it is located adjacent to a conservation park dogs are not allowed on the beach because it is a sensitive nesting area for the hooded plover. (Camps 5: 390 – GPS 34 54 01.9S 137 14 38.2E).
Friday 1st October – Short drive across the back road to Corny Point on the way to Gleesons Landing. This is at the western point of the foot of the peninsula and we had another great camp spot looking out directly over the water. There were quite a number of campers at this location and nearly as many brown snakes. Whilst there were pit toilets they were a fair distance from some camp spots with a family around the corner from us using the bush until they spotted a brown coming out of a burrow close by. They had also seen a 6’ one further up the road and another group had just killed one on a path I was walking along with Spencer. Have been too lazy to get the fishing rods out but this was possibly one of the best spots so far. Others seemed to be catching fish although this beach was a sanctuary for the southern rock lobster. (Camps 5: 383 – GPS 35 00 15.2S 136 57 57.2E).
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| Gleesons Landing |
Saturday 2nd October – Heading across to the east coast to Edithburgh to stay at a caravan park to catch up with laundry. Being the October long weekend that was a silly idea as every caravan park from Edithburgh to Ardrossan was booked out and packed in like sardines. Stansbury and Port Vincent would be worth a closer look at a quieter time. Whilst many of these towns are great holiday destinations for south Australians we have been spoilt be living on the east coast. We travelled back inland to Maitland to camp at the showground for two nights to allow the long weekend to pass by. There were five caravanners here each night with plenty of space, close to the centre of town, good showers, toilets and dump facility. Caretaker was saying that they will eventually have separate ladies toilet/shower and laundry. (Camps 5: 400 – GPS 34 22 14.3S 137 40 41.7E)
Monday 4th October – Headed back down to the coast at Price then Port Clinton and around the top of the Gulf of St Vincent through Port Wakefield to Port Parham. Being the end of the long weekend the roads were very busy so we were keen to get off the highway. Port Parham is said to be the second most popular free camp in SA (don’t know where the most popular is unless it is Rapid Bay where there is a fee). It has good toilets, free bbq’s and water with camping allowed for up to 14 days. Another one of those locations where the tide goes out forever so not possible to fish from the shore. We were being swamped by mosquitoes so decided to move eastward to the recreation ground at Mallala (Camps 5: 312 – GPS 34 26 18.1S 138 30 54.2E). Small town with roads leading to Adelaide, Port Wakefield, Gawler and Dublin and an amazing amount of traffic for a public holiday. Camping is restricted to a confined area on the opposite side of the football ground to the toilets and bbq and a good walk to the water tap but still a good overnight camp.
Tuesday 5th October – Short drive down through Two Wells and Virginia before joining the A1 into Adelaide. As there are only three caravan parks in Adelaide that take dogs we booked into Windsor Gardens for 3 nights. This backs onto the linear track that joins the hill suburbs with the city along the Torrens River. Great place for exercising the dog. Walkers, runners and cyclists seem to use this track 24/7.
Wednesday was the first day without Spencer, booking him into doggy daycare at a nearby vet clinic, and heading for a day in the Adelaide Hills. Drove up a very winding, hilly and narrow road through Cudlee Creek and Lobethal to Woodside where we enjoyed the treats of the chocolate and cheese factories which are side by side. Brought some dark chocolate which we are partial to and some goats cheese brie which is the best I have tasted. From there we drove on to Nepenthe winery at Balhannah where we tasted some sauvignon blanc, our favourite style. The 2009 certainly equals the Marlborough wines that we normally buy so we purchased a 6 pack and had coffee while the lady packed it securely for its journey in the caravan. From there we visited Hahndorf which is the main tourist destination in the hills and was very crowded on the day. For lunch we drove further on to Kanmantoo to a Tuscan restaurant that had been featured on Paul (Mercurios) Kitchen on TV. Well worth the extra distance and first time we have had a three course meal for ages it was that good. Would have been nice to be able to have wine with the meal and stay overnight in the B&B accommodation. After lunch it was time to head home joining the freeway for the run into Adelaide. This is the main road in to Adelaide but with its long downhill run from Mt Lofty would not be too enthusiastic about coming down here with a heavy van.
On Thursday went for a drive to Glenelg and whilst it was a sunny day the wind was bitterly cold so did not stay for too long.
Wednesday was the first day without Spencer, booking him into doggy daycare at a nearby vet clinic, and heading for a day in the Adelaide Hills. Drove up a very winding, hilly and narrow road through Cudlee Creek and Lobethal to Woodside where we enjoyed the treats of the chocolate and cheese factories which are side by side. Brought some dark chocolate which we are partial to and some goats cheese brie which is the best I have tasted. From there we drove on to Nepenthe winery at Balhannah where we tasted some sauvignon blanc, our favourite style. The 2009 certainly equals the Marlborough wines that we normally buy so we purchased a 6 pack and had coffee while the lady packed it securely for its journey in the caravan. From there we visited Hahndorf which is the main tourist destination in the hills and was very crowded on the day. For lunch we drove further on to Kanmantoo to a Tuscan restaurant that had been featured on Paul (Mercurios) Kitchen on TV. Well worth the extra distance and first time we have had a three course meal for ages it was that good. Would have been nice to be able to have wine with the meal and stay overnight in the B&B accommodation. After lunch it was time to head home joining the freeway for the run into Adelaide. This is the main road in to Adelaide but with its long downhill run from Mt Lofty would not be too enthusiastic about coming down here with a heavy van.
On Thursday went for a drive to Glenelg and whilst it was a sunny day the wind was bitterly cold so did not stay for too long.
Friday 8th October – Had a safe journey across Adelaide to head down the main south road to Rapid Bay. Plenty of hills on this road but some good views as the further south we got. Brought some treats from the bakery at Normanville for morning tea which we had down at the beach front. This is one of the nicer towns along the coastline. It was a relatively short drive from here to Rapid Bay which is set between two headlands with a steep drop from the main road between the hills to the camping ground. This is the most picturesque location we have camped at during our trip and worth the visit. We met a couple from Mackay who had arrived the previous weekend and, being the SA long weekend only had one camping site available as it is so popular. After we had set up young group arrived in 5 cars and although they were separated by the caretaker as soon as she had departed they regrouped just behind us and whilst we have experienced worse they kept up the noise well into the night. Groups have to prebook which evidently they had not done so the next night they were moved on. The camping fee is $6pp and it never ceases to amaze me the number of people who come in to such camp grounds after dark and after the caretaker has departed and leave early the next morning without paying. One certainly worth putting on the itinerary (Camps 5: 257 – GPS 35 31 28.2S 138 11 30.9E). Fishing from the jetty is very popular but the beach is easier to access.
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| Looking Back at Campground - Rapid Bay |
Sunday 10th October – Intending to stay in a caravan park at Victor Harbour but after a scenic drive from Rapid Bay, and topping up with groceries, we decided to drive on. It is not permitted to take dogs onto the causeway that joins Granite Rock which was the main attraction for us we travelled through Port Elliot and Goolwa to Milang on Lake Alexandrina where we stopped for lunch. Considered the caravan park which was in a quite location across the road from the lake but decided to camp the night at Frank Potts Reserve at Langhorne Creek. This is a nicely grassed area which now has an eco pit toilet instead of having to walk a kilometre into town. Worth a longer stay but would have to continually move the caravan to chase the sun for the solar panels. (Camps 5: 247 – GPS 35 17 56.7S 139 02 32.3E).
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| Granite Rock - Kingston |
Monday 11th October – Travelled eastward to Wellington to cross the Murray River by ferry again, turning south to pass through Meningie, travelling through the Coorong to camp at The Granites east of Kingston. No amenities at all but good outlook. Warning to dog owners to keep dogs on lead as 1080 bait has been placed around the camp area as well as along the sand dunes along the beach. The beaches are one of the few locations where Spencer can be let off lead for a run but too risky here. (Camps 5: 32 – GPS 36 39 27.7S 139 51 17.3E).
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| Blue Lake - Mt. Gambier |
Will post photos at later date.
Friday 15th October – Blew a gale last night. Had difficulty walking up to the bakery the wind was so strong! A short drive to Russell crossing the border into Victoria on the way. A quiet little village which may be worth a stopover in better weather. Continued on through a number of pine forests to the village of Dartmoor which has lost a significant part of its population since closure of the timber mill, now only 216. We camped two nights here(Camps 5: 600 – GPS 37 55 29.5S 141 16 50.9E). The village is well worth a visit for the chainsaw sculptures of some of the old cypress pines and Atlantic beech; remarkable!
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| Chainsaw Carvings - Dartmoor |
Sunday 17th October – Not sure where we are heading for today, intending to check out possible camp sites along the way. Travelled through Heywood to Portland where we topped up groceries and had morning tea down by the waterfront. Very picturesque town and along the coastline until we rejoined the Princes Hwy. Checked out a camp site at the mouth of the Fitzroy River but too isolated. Checked out the caravan park at Yambuk but very exposed to the elements in the crappy weather that was persisting. We eventually stayed at Skillagalee (GPS 38 22 14.4S 142 13 31.7E) at Port Fairy, a private property just out of town which had power and water for $5 per night. Very quiet location and we caught up with the ‘Uptown Girls’ who we had met at Granite Rocks near Kingston. Port Fairy is very much as depicted on the postcards with a very attractive riverfront walk and a number of historical buildings.
Tuesday 19th October – Intended to stay at the Warrnambool Showground but once again caught out be the show circuit with camping not permitted because of the upcoming show. Whilst using the dump point we had a chance to check out the showers and it was probably a blessing in disguise that the grounds were not available. We backtracked inland to Koroit to spend two nights at the caravan park (Camps 5: 584 – GPS 38 17 49.4S 142 2 06.4E) which, although it had a number of permanents, was a very quiet park. Koroit is home to the largest dairy production facility in Australia. Koroit originally had the highest ratio of Irish to English population due to immigrating for the potato and onion farms in the region. The town has a heritage walk with 30 historical buildings included; two of the moe spectacular being the Catholic Church and presbytery.
Thursday 21st October – Short drive along some narrow back roads to Lake Elingamite (Camps 5: 580 – GPS 38 20 55.7S 143 00 56.8E) near Cobden. Nicely grassed area used by the Cobden Angling Club which was being mowed when we arrived. One other couple camped there and had other friends arrive same day but moved out next morning. Apparently a popular fishing spot for the locals but need a boat because the surrounds are deep mud with maximum depth in the middle of only 14 feet. It appears that someone dumped a cattel dog/corgi cross dog the previous weekend. It was a very friendly and obedient dog and had been following the lady from the other caravan when she went on walks and also followed me when I went for a walk. Spoke with a local framer who said the dog did not belong to any of the farmers in the area. When we got into Cobden the next day I went to one of the vets, hopefully locating a branch of the RSPCA or animal rescue group, but all that was available was the shire council animal management. We just hope the dog did not finish up unclaimed in the pound because such animals are usually put down and this little fellow was two good a pet for that outcome.
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| Campground at Lake Elingamite near Cobden |
Friday 22nd October – Another short drive to Colac to catch up with David Testa and family. David was my old boss at CADET and as it was me that made David aware of the position with the Colac Otway Council. David came from Colac so it was returning home for David but first cold winters for Bernadeen and his girls so needed to check that they were still singing my praises and not sticking pins in my voodoo doll. Apart from the cold winters they are enjoying the country life and being back near David’s family. They are still holding to their house on the Sunshine Coast though. Colac is not really a tourist town and not one you would normally stop over at. Stayed at the Central Caravan Park located at the showground but wish we had checked at Lake Colac Caravan Park, much better park and location.
Saturday 23rd October – Heading for Hastings on the Mornington Peninsula after a stopover in Geelong to catch up with Geoff and Nerida who picked up their new Evernew caravan yesterday. This was our first time in Geelong but fortunately fairly simple to locate caravan park. Even in two years components have changed significantly so layout and fit out is first class. Caught up over a coffee They have a very nice van and should get many years of pleasure with their travels. From Geelong it was a relatively easy drive up the freeway, over Westgate and down M1 towards Hastings. As it was Saturday afternoon this was probably easier than it would have been on a weekday. The caravan park at Hastings is mainly permanents with only 6 tourist sites located around the amenities block so everyone is packed in tight but with our large van we had the easiest site to access. The park was at the southern end of the town overlooking the marina. On Sunday ex-sister-in-law Marg and husband Rob would not let us drive across to Mt Martha so picked us up and we spent the day with them at their beautiful home which is set on a tree covered block only a few hundred metres walk to a quiet beach on Port Phillip Bay. Great location! Met Rob’s parents and his father, as a hobby, does bird carvings and has done all of the birds of their particular part of the Mornington Peninsula, some of which have now disappeared due to growing population. As the double block was completely fenced and secure Spencer had a great time running amuck around the yard and through the foliage. Had hoped to see Marg’s granddaughter (Jeanette’s grand-niece) for the first time but sometimes the best laid plans come unstuck.
Monday 25th October – Nice easy start to the day until we turned on to the Sth Gippsland Hwy and the trip through Korumburra, Leongatha to Trafalgar was very hilly and slow going then an easy drive into Moe. After 18 years I had forgotten how hilly and windy the road up to Walhalla was. This was one of the original Victorian goldfields and is steeped in history with many if the original buildings still standing. The last twelve kilometres were heart in mouth with the road being narrow and very, very winding descending into this village surrounded by hills with no TV reception and no mobile phone reception unless you were in the exact right position. We camped at the northern end of town (Camps 5: 47 – GPS 37 55 57.2S 146 26 55.0E) where there was a group travelling together with a couple of them having brand new vans.
Tuesday 26th October – Couple of close calls with oncoming traffic as we climbed out of Walhalla this morning. Glad to get past the first 12 kms. After leaving Traralgon you drive through the centre of Loy Yang power station on the way to Yarram, once again through the hills until reaching the coastal flats at Yarram on the way to Port Albert (Camps 5: 89 – GPS 38 40 20.6S 146 41 37.9E). Port Albert was the first port in Victoria in 1841 but with the development if the road network and rail the port slowly died and the town with it. Overnight camping is permitted in the car park adjacent to the boat ramp and the view is magnificent. Fish and chips from the wharf café are reputed to be the best in Victoria and they were certainly good. It is unfortunate that most of our visits and stopovers in coastal locations in Victoria has been spoilt by the weather.
Wednesday 27th October – Headed across the back roads to rejoin the highway south of Woodside stopping at Sale to top up fruit & veges. Always try to buy from specialty shops rather than supermarkets but this was not a good choice. Headed to Marley Point to check out a free camp site but it was just an isolated game reserve beside Lake Wellington with no amenities at all and would have been swarming with mosquitoes so decided to have morning tea adjacent to the yacht club before continuing up the back road through Bengworden to Paynesville. Only one caravan park that takes dogs, Resthaven, with not much room between the available sites but just long enough to stay hooked up. Once again a lot of permanents and they were having a new swimming pool built which was supposed to be finished before the long weekend but wasn’t but they had the best amenities we have come across so far. Best shower layout and really hot water. Intending to see Beth and Keith Edmonson tomorrow at their home in Bairnsdale but they came out today and took us on a sightseeing trip around Paynesville and Eagle Point seeing more than if we had driven around by ourselves. Keith showed us a couple of great lookouts, particularly one at Eagle Point with a view across the lake to Metung and back to Bairnsdale and the mountains.
Thursday 28th October – After Keith gave me directions to get to their house yesterday I still needed to attempts to find it in a new estate which is not easy crawling around residential streets with a caravan when you don’t where you are going. After catching up over morning tea we headed to Lakes Entrance. With the long weekend approaching we knew we would have difficulty getting a site in a caravan park. Eastern Beach was one that accepted dogs and looked like they had nice grassed sites but was filling up rapidly and, as we don’t like crowds, decided to move on. We had a location, Glasshouse Camp, picked out on the north side of Lake Tyers. Turning off the highway 6 kms north of Nowa Nowa we had a 16 km drive through state forest on gravel road to our destination. The last 600 metres was very narrow with bushes overgrowing what was a track at this stage and with one very tight corner we had arrived at one of the most scenic outlooks we have had at any campsite. There were no amenities but we were by ourselves and it was eerily quiet overnight (GPS 37 50 46.8S 148 06 33.3E). The significance of this place is that there is still the remains of a kiln where they used to make insulators for power lines and ship them out across the lake in the early part of the 1900’s. As we drove in saw our first wild emu in the bush followed by a black swamp wallaby.
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| Glasshouse Camp - Lake Tyers |
Friday 29th October – After the short drive to Orbost we checked out Marlo before deciding the shady, grassed caravan park at Orbost was more to our liking. As the progressed there were so many caravanners, campers and motorhomes heading to Marlo it would have been crowded in either caravan park. Had a restful 3 days at Snowy River Caravan Park at Orbost (Camps 5: 19 – GPS 37 42 43.0S 148 27 13.7E). Saturday was crap weather so Sunday, whilst we had some sunshine, went for a drive up river to Wood Point. Wondering whether this had been the best choice as we climbed up through the state forest before dropping down to river level at the point. Some of the sections were steep with loose gravel on the surface so was in low 4wd for better control in places so imagine our surprise when we got there to find a family camped there in a pop-top. It was a great secluded location and we were surprised at how mild the water was, being the Snowy River. Another group arrived to have a picnic lunch and as we were leaving they called me up on the UHF to warn us that a friend was coming down the track on a trail bike. As I was talking this bloke came around the corner in front a bit too fast and nearly wiped himself out on the front of the cruiser, just squeezing past on the edge of the track. We drove back into Orbost then southward to Corringale Beach which we considered looking at as a potential camping spot. Glad we didn’t. As we got back to the highway at Newmerella the police had the highway blocked both sides doing breathalysers on all vehicles. This was just south of where we rejoined the highway so we weren’t stopped, not that it would have mattered. Not only do you get top meet some interesting people in the caravan parks; we met a nice older couple from Gordonvale at Orbost but I met an interesting couple as I was walking around the streets. They had a toy poodle so hence the common interest but they had originally lived in Lakes Entrance but had moved out because it had become too touristy and you couldn’t move at Xmas time. They said the same applied to Marlo at Xmas.
Monday 1st November – Heading for Foreshore Caravan Park (Camps 5: 4 – GPS 37 33 39.5S 149 45 36.8E)at Mallacoota today. Up hill and down dale again all the way with a slow 23 kms in from the highway. The Foreshore Caravan Park is in a great location and we were lucky that they had opened the southern section this year (they didn’t for the same weekend last year) so we were lucky to not be crammed in at the other end of the park. Only staying 2 nights because the weather is still crap and no sign of it improving. As we are heading inland once we cross the border the weather might be a lot better by the time we hit the coast again at Yamba. Will head down to the foreshore later in day to try some fishing. Park manager said they were catching plenty of flathead all around.
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| Mallacoota |
